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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.